Nordic Curator
Field Notes · 11 min read ·

For Munro-baggers: Galdhøpiggen, Glittertind and the Norwegian tops

A meltwater stream cutting through the high-country meadows of Jotunheimen with snow-streaked peaks rising above.
Photo: CH / Visitnorway.com · Jotunheimen

What a Munro-bagger should know about the Norwegian list

Scotland’s 282 Munros are, by some distance, the most carefully curated peak list in the world. Sir Hugh Munro’s 1891 table is revised by the Scottish Mountaineering Club, the qualifying drop is endlessly debated, and the people who finish the round are recorded by name in a register that goes back over a century. The list is, in a real sense, a national institution.

Norway has nothing quite like it - and at the same time, it has rather more than you might expect. The closest equivalent is Norges Tinder, the standard national catalogue of separate two-thousand-metre summits, which the cartographer Stein Tronstad and his collaborators stabilised at 2,469 entries in the 2011 edition. The qualifying criteria - a 50-metre drop on all sides - are more generous than Munro’s, and the list is the work of a small group of mountain people rather than a national club. There is no formal register of completers. There is no certificate. There is, in the cultural sense, no proper bagging tradition: a Norwegian who has been up Galdhøpiggen ten times will still tell you, slightly puzzled, that it is just a walk.

What Norway does have is a deep, quiet hill-walking culture organised around friluftsliv and the Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT), which runs more than 550 staffed and self-service mountain huts across the country (we have written a separate piece on how the DNT hut-to-hut system actually works for the visiting British walker). The walking is taken as seriously as in Scotland, but the framing is different: the day is the point, not the tick. A British walker stepping into this will recognise the rhythm immediately and will need to adjust to one or two things that the Munro round does not prepare you for.

Galdhøpiggen - what it actually involves

Jotunheimen - literally the home of the giants - is the spine of the high Norwegian mountain country, and Galdhøpiggen at 2,469 metres is its high point and the highest summit in mainland Northern Europe. The standard ascent route, used by the great majority of walkers who go to the top, starts from Juvasshytta at 1,840 metres. Juvasshytta is a working mountain lodge with road access from Lom, sometimes described - fairly - as the highest road-accessible hotel in Northern Europe.

The walk from Juvasshytta is around 12 kilometres return, with roughly 1,200 metres of ascent, and takes most fit parties between six and seven hours on the day. The first hour is straightforward: a rising stone path across boulder country to the edge of the Styggebrean glacier. The middle two hours are the part that distinguishes the day from a Munro. You rope up in groups of six to ten, follow a guide across the glacier - the route changes through the season as the crevasse field shifts - and emerge onto the long final ridge. The last 300 metres of climb up to the summit hut are on stable scree, with a pleasingly disproportionate view from the top: the entire Jotunheim plateau to the south, the Smørstabbtindane to the west, the long shoulder of Glittertind to the north-east.

The glacier crossing is non-negotiable from this side. The crevasses are real, the route changes through the summer, and the standard professional advice - which we follow - is that an unguided crossing is not a sensible day out. The local guide companies based at Juvasshytta and Spiterstulen run scheduled walks across the season at a fixed and reasonable price. The alternative is the longer route from Spiterstulen at 1,100 metres in the Visdalen valley to the east, which avoids the glacier altogether but adds about 1,400 metres of ascent and turns the day into a serious nine to ten hours.

On a clear day in the high season the summit can be busy - a hundred people through the small summit hut on a good Saturday in late July - which surprises British walkers used to a quieter Highland top. On a poor day, with cloud down on the glacier and a fresh wind across the upper ridge, you may be the only party on the mountain. The weather window matters more here than the calendar.

Glittertind - the silent rival

If Galdhøpiggen is the headline summit, Glittertind is the quieter rival a short distance to the north-east. At 2,452 metres on bare rock - or around 2,465 metres in the years when its summit ice cap is thick enough to count, a piece of nineteenth-century cartographic etiquette that occasionally still makes the Norwegian press - it has been variously described as the highest or the second-highest mountain in the country, depending on the season and on which decade you read.

The walk to the top from Spiterstulen, which is the standard approach, is around 16 kilometres return with roughly 1,400 metres of ascent: longer than the standard Galdhøpiggen day, but on a single ridge line with no glacier and no roped crossing. The summit ridge is broad, the upper snowfield is firm in summer, and the view across to Galdhøpiggen and the rest of the Jotunheim plateau is, if anything, more open than from Galdhøpiggen itself.

What you trade is the company. On a midweek day in August you can walk to the top of Glittertind and meet four other parties on the ridge. The same day on the standard Galdhøpiggen route would have you queueing on the glacier behind a guided group of forty. For a British walker who has done the Coast to Coast or the Cape Wrath Trail and is looking for a single high Norwegian day done quietly, Glittertind is often the better choice.

Other tops worth knowing about

Outside the two best-known summits, three more are worth a British walker’s attention.

  • Snøhetta (2,286 m), Dovrefjell

    The high point of the Dovrefjell plateau, north of Jotunheimen on the long inland route between Oslo and Trondheim. The standard route from Snøheim is about 17 kilometres return with 850 metres of ascent - a long but not technical day. Dovrefjell holds the country’s last wild musk-ox herd, and the plateau approach is one of the more dramatic walks in the country. A reasonable comparison, in feel rather than in scale, is the long approach across the Cairngorm plateau to Ben Macdui.

  • Surtningssue (2,368 m), Jotunheimen

    One of the higher Jotunheim summits and almost completely unknown to the international walker. Approached from Memurubu on the shore of Lake Gjende - the same lake the famous Besseggen ridge crosses - the day is around 14 kilometres return with 1,400 metres of ascent. No glacier, no rope, and on most days you will have the summit to yourself.

  • Galdebergstind (2,075 m), Jotunheimen

    A modest two-thousander on the western edge of the Jotunheim plateau, often used as a warm-up day before the higher route. The walk from Leirvassbu is around 8 kilometres return with 900 metres of ascent and gives a long view back across the Smørstabbtindane to Galdhøpiggen. A useful first day in the range while the body adjusts to the altitude and the daylight.

How a Norwegian day differs from a Munro day

A few things will catch a British walker out, and they are worth saying plainly.

The weather is colder for the same calendar date. A summer day on Galdhøpiggen is, in air-temperature terms, much closer to an October day on Ben Nevis than to a July day on Cairn Gorm. Snow on the upper ridges is a normal August occurrence. The right kit for the Munros in May is the right kit for the Jotunheim peaks in July.

The waymarking is far lighter. The DNT marks its principal trails with a red T painted on rocks at intervals - and that is essentially the entire signage system on the ground. There are no cairns, no posts, no path-of-the-month boards. A British walker used to the well-trodden Munro paths will find Norwegian routes harder to read in poor visibility, and the standard advice from the Norwegian mountain rescue (Fjellvettreglene, the nine mountain code rules) is to carry a map, a compass, and the ability to use both.

The daylight is much longer. In July you have effectively eighteen hours of usable light at the latitude of Jotunheimen, and a serious twenty-four hours of light by the time you reach Lofoten. This changes the day fundamentally. A late start is a perfectly reasonable choice; a slow lunch on the summit ridge does not commit you to a head-torch descent. Most experienced Norwegian walkers prefer the late afternoon and early evening over the conventional morning start.

The infrastructure is more generous. Through the high season the DNT hut network means you can walk for a week through Jotunheimen without carrying camping kit, sleeping in staffed lodges with a three-course evening meal and a packed lunch ready in the morning. The British equivalent - a week on the Cape Wrath Trail with bothies and rationed shop stops - is a noticeably more austere proposition. The flip side is that the Norwegian huts get genuinely full in the high summer: book ahead.

Public transport works. The Jotunheim Express bus runs from Oslo in around five hours through the high season, and connects through to Bygdin, Gjendesheim, Spiterstulen and Juvasshytta. A car is convenient but not necessary. A British walker used to the slow rhythm of getting to the western Highlands by train and ferry will find Norwegian access surprisingly straightforward.

When to go

The Norwegian high season for the two-thousanders is short and well-defined - we have written separately on the best season for walking in Norway for the walker still weighing dates. Galdhøpiggen with its glacier crossing is normally guideable from late June to mid-September, with the central window of mid-July to mid-August the safest. Glittertind and the snow-free routes have a slightly longer season at either end. Outside this window the snow on the upper ridges and the closure of the glacier route push the day from a robust hill walk into the territory of a serious Alpine outing, and the standard guide companies stop running scheduled groups.

Within the season, there is a real difference between the two halves. Mid-July to mid-August is the warmest, busiest, and most reliable; late August to mid-September is cooler, quieter, and the autumn light on the high plateaus is, frankly, the better aesthetic. A British walker willing to accept a slightly higher chance of an early snow shower will find the late-season window the more rewarding one.

Friday and Saturday on the standard Galdhøpiggen route are the busiest days. Tuesday or Wednesday are quieter by an order of magnitude. If the date is flexible at all, midweek is worth the planning effort.

How we curate Galdhøpiggen and the wider Jotunheim week

The case for stitching Jotunheimen into a wider Norwegian week, rather than treating it as a single objective, is set out in our Wainwright-and-Jotunheimen essay and in the regional comparison between Lofoten, Jotunheimen and Hardangervidda. The standard Galdhøpiggen day sits inside two longer journeys when British walkers ask us to put one together, both run by Norwegian mountain operators with a decade of track record. The first is a focused Galdhøpiggen four-night guided walking holiday, with the guided summit day at the centre, an acclimatisation walk on Galdebergstind the day before, and a quieter day on Glittertind at the end of the week. The second is a full week of hut-to-hut walking across the central Jotunheim plateau, with Galdhøpiggen as one of the high days within a longer traverse.

Both trips use Norwegian mountain guides certified through the Tindevegledere or the international UIAGM scheme - the same standard that any serious Alpine guide will hold - and both sit under the consumer protection of Reisegarantifondet, the Norwegian Travel Guarantee Fund. The pricing is fair by Norwegian standards (which is to say, higher than a Highland equivalent and lower than a comparable Alpine week), and we are happy to talk through the right week-length and the right base lodge for a given party.

For a walker who prefers to arrange this independently rather than book through our curation, the standard advice is to base yourself at Juvasshytta itself or at the Lom valley hotels for the night before, sign up for one of the local guided crossings on arrival, and allow at least two clear days in the area in case the weather closes the standard route on the first attempt. The DNT website (ut.no) is the single best Norwegian source for current trail conditions and hut bookings.

FAQ

Common questions

Is Galdhøpiggen technically harder than a Scottish Munro?
How does Galdhøpiggen compare to Ben Nevis?
Do I need a guide for Galdhøpiggen?
Is Glittertind really lower than Galdhøpiggen?
How many two-thousanders are there in Norway?
When is the best month to walk Galdhøpiggen?
Can I combine Galdhøpiggen with a longer Norwegian walking trip?