Short dispatches from the fjell.
A small, slow editorial. Pieces written when there is something properly worth saying about Norway, walking, cycling or ski-touring.
21 June 2026 · 8 min readLyngen Alps ski touring: a UK guide to Norway's arctic peaks
Bigger and more glaciated than anything in Scotland, less committing than the high Alps in spring: an honest guide to the Lyngen Alps for British skiers, covering the season, the skills, the kit and the logistics of a first arctic ski touring week.
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5 June 2026 · 13 min readAllemannsretten compared to Scotland's right to roam: a UK walker's guide
Scotland fought through the courts for its right to roam and codified it in 2003. Norway never bothered to write its version down, and the Norwegian version is the stronger of the two. A practical comparison for British walkers, with the rules you can act on.
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31 May 2026 · 13 min readNorway autumn walking holiday: a UK walker's September and October guide
Three kinds of UK walker miss the best month to walk in Norway, for three different reasons. The gold week, the hut closures, and why October half-term suits Lofoten but not the high interior.
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19 May 2026 · 12 min readIf you've walked the Coast to Coast, this is the Norwegian equivalent
For walkers who have done the Coast to Coast and want the Norwegian equivalent: the central Jotunheimen hut-to-hut traverse is the closest fit. The shape of the trip, the kind of walker it suits, and what changes when you swap Lake District B&Bs for staffed DNT lodges.
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13 May 2026 · 13 min readHow hard is walking in Norway, really?
A working calibration of Norwegian fjell-walking against the Munros, the Coast to Coast and the Alps. What a typical day looks like in numbers, where the flagship summits actually sit on the difficulty curve, and what changes the answer.
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8 May 2026 · 11 min readFor Munro-baggers: Galdhøpiggen, Glittertind and the Norwegian tops
A British walker who knows their way around the Munros will find a great deal that is familiar in the Norwegian fjell, and a few things that are not. Here is how the two ranges really compare.
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4 May 2026 · 12 min readLofoten vs Jotunheimen vs Hardangervidda: which Norwegian region suits you?
Three regions, three different trips. Lofoten is Arctic islands at sea level. Jotunheimen is the high alpine country with the DNT lodge network. Hardangervidda is the open plateau. Here is the comparison we wish someone had written first.
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30 April 2026 · 10 min readInntravel, Exodus, Headwater: and what we do differently in Norway
Inntravel, Exodus, Headwater. Three serious British operators with some Norway range. Here is what each does well, what each does less well, and where our curator model sits next to them.
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20 April 2026 · 11 min readIs it safe to walk in Norway alone?
Yes - and the question itself misses the point. Crime is not the risk for a solo walker in Norway; weather and terrain are. What a UK walker needs to know about fjellvettreglene, the DNT safety net, and where solo Norwegian walking is actually easier than a solo Scottish week.
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10 April 2026 · 12 min readThe Lyngen Alps and the Cuillin: sibling ranges, separated by 800 miles of sea
Two mountain ranges, separated by 800 miles of sea and 400 million years of weathering, with the same family resemblance. A Skye climber's calibration of the Lyngen Alps - what transfers from the Cuillin, what doesn't, and how to plan a week in the Arctic that uses what you already know.
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4 April 2026 · 13 min readNorway walking calendar: a UK month-by-month planner
Norway's walking calendar is a set of doors that open and close on specific dates, and not all of them obvious from a brochure. A month-by-month planner for a UK walker: what's open, what's bookable, which weeks we book most often, and which months we politely refuse.
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22 March 2026 · 9 min readWhen is the best season for walking in Norway?
July is not always the right answer. September sometimes is. Here is the regional, month-by-month version, written for a walker with one good week and a strong preference for being told the truth.
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13 March 2026 · 11 min readMjølkevegen: a UK cyclist's guide to Norway's gravel route
Mjølkevegen is the Norwegian gravel week most British road-cyclists could ride and most British gravel-riders should ride. 250 km of mostly hardpacked smooth gravel through Valdres and Jotunheimen. A curator's guide to the routes, the Rallarvegen add-on, and the bike you need.
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4 March 2026 · 10 min readLofoten: should you walk or cycle?
Lofoten works for both walking and cycling, and that is rare in Norway. The choice is real, and turns less on fitness than on what kind of week you want to remember. A curator's guide to the decision, the routes, and the rorbu nights both formats share.
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14 February 2026 · 10 min readHut-to-hut walking with DNT: how the Norwegian system works
Norway has 550 mountain huts run by a 158-year-old federation, opened with a standard key, paid for in a ledger, and largely run on trust. For a British walker used to commercial walking holidays this is a different country. Here is how it actually works.
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Wainwright would have walked Jotunheimen - here is why
The Lakeland essayist who mapped the fells in seven volumes never went to Norway. If he had, he would have recognised it immediately - and he would have had a few sharp things to say about how it is sold.
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12 December 2025 · 10 min readNorwegian walking culture, explained for British walkers
What does the Norwegian word tur really mean, and why does a 70-year-old woman in head-to-toe Bergans walk past you in horizontal sleet on a Tuesday morning in November as if nothing in particular were happening? A short cultural portrait, written for British visitors who would like to read the country a little more accurately.
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More Field Notes will appear here as they are written. In the meantime, if you have a specific question about Norway, you can write to us.